Athens may have the Parthenon, that most exquisite symbol of achievement, but this free, anarchic city is more than just a monumental collection of 5th-century-B.C. landmarks. Beside the ancient sites in the compact, historic center lie pedestrian walkways lined with modern bars, cafes, and tavernas, where the food is piled high, the barrel wine flows freely, and the patrons are animated. Kicking dance clubs and luxurious post-Olympic hotels down scenic streets are only a short walk away. And then there’s the shopping, from the latest shoes to classical craftsmanship.